2nd November 2016
Pam Hogg is a legendary fashion designer, musician and artist who first appeared on the cover of the raw issue of i-D in 1989. Pam has supported Debbie Harry and the Pogues, is friends with Siouxie Sioux and Bobby Gillespie, and has had her designs worn by everyone from Kylie to Rihanna. In the eighties Pam found herself at the centre of London’s punk movement. Here she tells us more about that time and what punk means to her.
Punk Attitude by Matt Irwin R.I.P.
When did you first start getting involved in the London punk movement?
Punk was a calling, an attitude that just seemed to arrive mid 70s and its energy drew me in. It was a force against the norm, a rebellion.
What was your first encounter with punk?
It was the music first, it was dramatically different to anything that had come before, it had a new unrefined and daring energy.
How would you define punk in a few words?
It was raw and dirty and unpolished; it was everything you didn’t know you wanted till it arrived.
Do you see yourself as a punk?
No, I just totally embraced the attitude and it’s stayed with me, I feel connected to the rawness and defiant honesty of it.
Once a punk always a punk…in the men’s toilet at Vivienne Westwood’s Xmas party last year at the Shard…
The original Punk!…Anita Pallenberg outside the Freemasons Hall in Covent Garden as she arrived for my recent S/S17 show..surprised me by wearing one of my coats she’d bought unknown to me from my shop in the 80s...
With Lydia Lunch in NY after one of her gigs wearing my McQueen scarf: a worn out treasured present from Lee. “It was the first night my newly formed band DOLL played.. I’d just written 7 songs..got a band together in 5 days… then opened for Blondie!”
Do you think something as punk could emerge today. You once said ‘we couldn’t be further from punk if we tried’ – do you think Brexit might cause a new movement in London possibly?
Punk is an attitude and it was right for its time. Punk was right for its time. A new creative rebellion and forward thinking is necessary to continue to evolve,not just because of the crap we’re faced with again in politics, but politics always plays a part in igniting a feeling of discontent so hopefully that will bring a new energy.
So many people have worn your designs but if you could pick anyone, who would you dress today (no limitations,
dead or alive) and why?
I’d love to have known the actress Frances Farmer who died in 1970, she didn’t conform and she didn’t fit. She disobeyed, but they got the better of her. I feel she would have been a kindred spirt, it would have been a way to get to know her, she was in need of a true friend and ally.
Bobby Gillespie from Primal Scream, Anita Pallenberg and Patti Palladin at the Scala in front of an Iggy Pop blow up by Mick Rock…we were shooting for my Accelerator Video with pieces from a collection I made in 2000 …’Animal Magnetism’…
What’s your bigger love fashion or music?
I never intended to be a fashion designer, it was just something that was inherent in me. It’s the same with music, I can write and conjure up a melody as easily as I visualise a full collection, for me they’re the perfect inseparable duo.
Can you tell us a bit more about touring with Blondie?
I met Debbie through my clothes mid 80s. A few years later when she was back in London she cancelled a trip home when she found out I was singing in a band. Subsequently my next band Doll’s debut gig was to open for Blondie, it was really special time.
Me and Debbie on stage with Blondie in 1993…photo by Rob Courtney…For the finale she called me up on stage out of the audience to sing”Waiting for the Man”
Me and Chris Stein and Debbie Harry backstage after their gig .. it was the first night my newly formed band DOLL opened for Blondie.
..my glitter mash up of Siouxsie Sioux.. Photo by by Janette Beckman for her Punk Hip Hop Mash Up show in London earlier this year.
What would you suggest to anyone wanting to work in fashion or music today?
Make sure it’s truly what you want to do and not just a whim, be yourself and stay resolute.
What’s the favourite piece you have ever designed?
The one that’s in my imagination right now
Patent leather and spikes from Devine Delinquent collection AW16
Red velvet patent leather Devine Delinquent collection AW16
DEVINE DELINQUENT-Alice Dellal fittings for Devine Delinquent collection AW16